That the majority of Vosne ‘Les Gaudichots’ is officially registered as ‘Les Gaudichots ou [or] La Tache’ illustrates how close a historical linkage these 'separate' plots share. And while DRC and Régis Forey dissent stylistically their resulting wines - ‘La Tâche’ grand cru and Vosne 1er Cru ‘Les Gaudichots’ respectively - share certain essential and distinctly localized features.
One is perfume. Black tea and blood orange, sweet spices, and a rich tangling of red and black fruit find both examples to the extent that, like all great vineyards, site expression survives vintage and producer variance.
Forey’s bottling comes from a .3 ha plot just above DRC’s holding. Ancient vines produce just a couple barrels a year and, increasingly, less. ‘Pure old vine sap’ says Régis. What I love most about this 2001 is the expert tannin management. These tannins lengthen the fruit - black raspberry and wild cherries - yet leave no finishing astringency. My vote for the strongest 'Les Gaudichots' of the late-‘90s early-‘00s era chez Forey.
Cheers,
Jason
